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Madeira Tours

Getting around Madeira: a local guide

A rental car is non-optional unless you are staying in central Funchal for the entire trip and only doing in-town activities plus organised coach tours. Public buses reach the major towns; reaching the trail-heads, viewpoints, and good restaurants does not work without a car. This page lays out the realistic transport options and the tradeoffs.

Car rental: the fast facts

  • 55+ rental brands have Funchal Airport (FNC) presence. Only 11 are local Madeira-based; the rest are international chains or mainland Portugal white-labels.
  • Automatic-only fleets are scarce in summer. Book 6-8 weeks ahead if you cannot drive manual.
  • A few local operators (Stones, Carwave, Insularcar) hold no card pre-authorisation deposit. Aggregators that subcontract to local fleets typically still apply 1,500-2,500 EUR holds. If your card has a low limit, book direct.
  • Pickup type matters: counter pickup means inside FNC arrivals (fastest), shuttle pickup means a 5-15 minute van ride to the depot, meet-and-greet means an operator employee meets you at the airport with the keys.
  • Daily rates run 15-30 EUR for an economy car in shoulder season, 25-50 EUR in summer.

For the operator comparison and price floors, see carrentalsmadeira.com.

The tunnel network

Madeira's road system underwent a major modernisation between 1998 and 2010 with a network of mountain tunnels. Use them.

  • The VR1 highway (the southbound main artery from FNC airport to Funchal) cuts the airport-Funchal drive from 45 minutes on the old ER coast road to 18 minutes via tunnels.
  • The VE1 expressway extends west toward Ribeira Brava and Calheta. Tunnels through the south-coast cliffs save another 30 minutes.
  • The Encumeada tunnel under the central ridge connects south to north coast directly. Saves 40 minutes vs the old serpentine pass.
  • Tolls are included in the rental rate for most local operators. Not always for international chains; ask before pickup.

The bus network

There are two operators:

  • Horarios do Funchal runs all the urban Funchal city routes plus a few suburbs. Tickets purchasable on the bus or via the GIRO card.
  • Three regional operators (Rodoeste, SAM, EACL) cover the rest of the island, splitting the territory by region. Single-trip tickets purchasable on the bus.

The buses run reliably to Funchal and the major towns (Camara de Lobos, Santa Cruz, Machico, Ribeira Brava, Calheta, Sao Vicente, Porto Moniz, Santana). They do not run to the trail-heads at Pico Ruivo or Pico Areeiro. They do not run to most of the levada starts.

For coast-to-coast journeys you will often need to go through Funchal as a hub. A direct bus from Calheta to Santana takes about 3 hours via Funchal. Same trip in a rental car: 60-75 minutes via the Encumeada tunnel.

Taxis and ride-hail

  • Regular taxis available in Funchal and major towns. Hailable on the street at the airport and city ranks. Reasonable for short hops; expensive for cross-island.
  • Bolt operates on Madeira and is the cheapest ride-hail option. Usually 30-40% under taxi metered rates.
  • Uber does not operate on Madeira.
  • Cross-island taxi airport-to-Calheta runs around 70-90 EUR. Return airport-to-Funchal is 25-35 EUR.

Parking

  • Funchal: most accommodation has paid parking, often 8-15 EUR per day. Street parking in the centre is metered and limited. Parking garages near the marina (Centro de Congressos, Jardim Almirante Reis) are reliable.
  • Trail-heads at Pico Areeiro and Rabacal: free but fill before sunrise on weekends. Be there early.
  • Beach towns (Calheta, Porto Moniz): free roadside parking if you arrive before 11:00.

Driving notes locals know

  • Petrol is meaningfully more expensive than mainland Portugal. Budget 1.85-2.05 EUR per litre depending on the month.
  • The old ER coast roads (especially the cliffside stretches above Cabo Girao) are scenic but slow. Take them only when you have time and are not prone to motion sickness.
  • The Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo road is paved but steep, narrow, and prone to fog. Drive it in clear weather.
  • Speed limits: 50 in towns, 90 on regional roads, 100 on the VR1 highway. Speed cameras are used.
  • Drink-driving limit is 0.5 g/l (lower than UK). Be cautious about driving after wine tastings.

What I recommend

For a first visit of 5-7 days: rent a small economy car for the entire trip. Use the bus only for short Funchal runs if you do not want to deal with city parking on a specific evening.

For a longer stay (10+ days) when you are basing yourself in Funchal: consider renting only for the days you plan to leave the city. Saves 6-10 days of rental + parking fees. The bus or a Bolt is fine for in-city movement.

For accessibility-focused or family-with-stroller visits: the bus network is generally accessible for major routes; the rental car is easier door to door.

By Filipe Pereira, Madeira local travel guide. Last verified 2026-05-04.

Por Filipe Pereira, Madeira Local Travel Guide & Curator. Última verificación el 2026-05-04.